The Beaches of Normandy

Le Havre is our port today. It was built in 1517 to expedite trade with the New World and to protect France from Britain. A large lock separates the tidal River Seine and an inner canal. This port focuses on export of vehicles and the import of petrochemicals with 7000 ships per year. Eighty percent of the nuclear power in France is produced in the area.

Our long day tour today featured the WWII memorials dedicated to the stories of the Allied invasions in Normandy as the overthrow of the Germans began on the western front in Europe. While focused on the American sites, once our guide knew we were from Canada, he shared a lot of information about the British and Canadian contributions in the area as well. Our British guide, Colin, was absolutely superb – definitely a history buff so not only did he share information about the battles in the area, he was able to share the long history of wars, leadership, etc. over the ages – very interesting.

The first stop was the cliffs above Utah and Omaha beaches at the Pont du Hoc.
With a deep mist blowing in off the ocean, you could almost imagine how difficult this landing and battle was – it was cold and wet – and we were only there for an hour. For those soldiers there for many weeks, it would have been very uncomfortable for sure. The top of the cliff is riddled with large holes which would have provided protection for German soldiers as the attacks began. Two of the planned gun platforms were in place at the time of the attack on 6 June 1944 and remnants remain on the cliff.
After here, we traveled to the lower beach level where a beautiful sculpture and several memorials mark the Omaha beach landing sites and battles. Here, ~ 1,000 Americans lost their lives on June 6th, 1944 due to several factors – inaccurate bombing activity from the ships offshore, no tank support for the 1st wave of soldiers, poor weather, a well-qualified German division recently relocated to the area, and the terrain. It was easy to see how the long, flat open beach would have left the soldiers disembarking from landing craft totally exposed. We learned that even with a similar mix of mistakes and bad weather, the Canadians were successful in their part of the mission on Juno beach and also on the Plain of Caen where they took control of the Pegasus Bridge.

Our next stop was the American Cemetery where 9,387 soldiers lost in battles in the area are buried. The perfectly aligned crosses, in every direction, are enscripted on one side, purportedly facing the U.S. In total, 14,000 are buried in Normandy, while another 14,000 were repatriated to the States when the cemeteries in the area were consolidated in the 50s. France has given the US land use in perpetuity so the site is managed and maintained by the States. A very moving site with beautiful gardens. The holly oak, which is green all year, lines many of the long walkways between the different sectors of the cemetery. Large wall diagrams show the movement of the various allied forces in the area over the summer of 1944 and the contributions of the various regiments.


Our afternoon was spent at the Caen War Memorial centre. An absolutely fantastic collection of print, picture, and video information about the time between WWI and WWII (economic, social and political happenings around the world), and then after the war. We didn’t even have time to get to the 2nd half of the exhibit as there was so much to read and listen to in the pre-1945 section. Definitely worth a 2nd visit on a return trip.

The return trip through the countryside of Normandy offered views of a mainly agricultural area with many cattle grazing in the hedge-surrounded fields.
Dairy and beef cattle are both raised – including a Normandy breed – it features “sunglasses” around the eyes! Camembert cheese is made from the milk of a certain breed of cow in this area. Apples are plentiful in the area after introduction from the Pyrenees in the 11th century. Distilled, it forms the traditional drink of Normandy, Calvados – an apple brandy. Flax in the fields produces first seeds and oil, then linen threads from the stocks which are exported to China. There is lots of limestone in the area so the houses are all block stone construction. Numerous 17th century castles are visible along the routes in the area – no stops to view today though as it wasn’t the focus of the tour.